How One French Winemaker Is Quietly Revolutionizing His Family's Venerable Wine
Visiting Domaine Fourrier in Gevrey–Chambertin is an exhilarating and exhausting experience. Jean-Marie Fourrier, the 45-year-old owner, is one of the most restless and intellectually curious winemakers in Burgundy, and keeping up with him is no easy task. At one point during a recent visit I thought Fourrier said, “Sulfite is like cocaine for the wine: If you don’t give it, the wine doesn’t need it.” However, by the time I wrote it down he had moved on to mannoproteins, the naturally occurring compounds found in the cell walls of yeast, then began comparing a certain style of winemaking to the music of the Sex Pistols. After two cellar visits and a dinner in Chicago, I’ve managed to fill in some of the blanks in my notes, but he always seems to have new observations and theories to share.
Here's a link from Town and Country magazine.